Canada's Premier
Home Inspector Association

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Interior
The interior of the home includes all the various rooms and related items,which are not covered in other aspects of your home inspection on the interior of the dwelling.Some items may overlap such as bathrooms and plumbing,rooms and electrical, and so on.A professional inspector will go through each and every room including all visible and readily accessible areas of your future home. This is very important part of your home inspection because symptoms or larger problems are often visible in the various rooms of your home. Settling can be noticed in the floors and walls.Roof or plumbing leaks may be noticed on the ceilings.Poor quality workmanship or mechanical distributions such as outlets and heat convection may be visible.The inspector will go through each room making notes of relevant defects.

It would be hard to imagine life without electricity. Although electricity greatly affects the quality of our lives, the average person knows very little about it. A successful real estate inspector will have the knowledge and skills to perform a thorough inspection of the electrical system of a house or building. Electricity provides us with light, mechanical systems and heat. An inadequate electrical system containing overloaded circuits or defective wiring and outlets can be a severe safety and fire hazard. The inspector will carefully evaluate the condition of the entire electrical system and check for any improper wiring and hazards associated with outdated methods and poor quality workmanship.

Electrical - Power Supply 

 The electrical power supply to your home is delivered through either overhead cable or an underground conduit. The cables run through a meter to measure the amount of power you use for billing purposes to you local utility and then they are routed to a main panel box. The main feed cables must be sized correctly to supply your home with adequate power for the comfortable and safe operation of the equipment currently being used. Many new homebuyers ask, “can I add central air conditioning or a home office”. Although your inspector does not do an electrical load calculation for this purpose, he will be able to guide you on what type of system expansion is possible and advise you about the current supply of electricity to your home.
 

The utility company's electrical lines may enter a house overhead from a power pole or underground from a buried pipe called conduit. Where the power enters your house, you'll usually find an electric meter and, either there or on an inside wall, behind the meter, the main service panel.

Called "rough-in components," wires, cables, and electrical boxes are installed during construction, before the wall and ceiling finish materials are put in place. "Finish components," such as receptacles, switches, and light fixtures, are installed after the interior coverings.

Your Electric Meter

Where power lines enter your house, you'll find an electric meter, which looks like a large glass jar with a bunch of wheels and dials inside.Inside the electric meter, four or five dials measure kilowatt hours- the units of electricity you're billed for.A kilowatt hour is equal to 1000 watt hours, the amount of energy it would take to light ten 100-watt light bulbs for one hour.Each month a utility company representative records the dial readings. The previous month's reading is subtracted from the current month's to come up with the usage that appears on your bill.
If you know how to read an electric meter, you can do the same thing. This can be helpful in tracking energy costs or checking the accuracy of your bills.Read an electric meter from right to left, jotting down the number each pointer has passed or is pointing to. Note in the illustration that the numbers circle the dials alternately clockwise and counterclockwise. Don't let this confuse you. If the dial hasn't quite reached a certain number, record the next lowest digit. If you're not sure whether or not the dial has passed a certain number, study the one to its right to see whether or not it has passed zero.Write the numbers down in the same order that you take them-from right to left- but read the result from left to right. The meter shown would read 02798.

Main panel and Subpanels

Once electricity is carried beyond your meter, it must be distributed to lights, receptacles and appliances throughout the house by several different individual electrical circuits. Here we look at the load centers-the service entrance panel and distribution center or main panel and smaller subpanels used to hook-up and control the various electrical circuits.
Main panels come in scores of sizes and configurations. A panel might be mounted on the outside of the house, either separate from or combined with the meter or on an inside wall, behind the meter.
The main panel includes some type of mechanical device for disconnecting the house's electrical circuits from the incoming power. In most contemporary systems, this device is a circuit breaker or "breaker." Other types of disconnects utilize levers and fuses-you pull down on a lever or pull out a fuse block to shut off the power to the house circuits.

On-Demand Water Heaters: A Tankless Task
 

Newer "tankless" water heaters heat and deliver water on demand, without storing it. Rather than holding water in a tank, they circulate it through a series of burners or electric coils that heat the water as it passes through. Though tankless units cost more than most conventional water heaters, they're cheaper to operate because energy isn't required to maintain a large tank of hot water 24 hours a day.

Because the water heater doesn't store hot water, it never runs out-- unless, that is, the flow surpasses the unit's ability to heat it. If two people take separate showers at the same time, a tankless unit may not be able to handle the flow. Start the washing machine and they're in for a cool shower.

Although a conventional water heater delivers water at a set temperature, the output water temperature of most tankless units is dependent upon both the flow and the temperature of incoming water, which can vary greatly from one season or region to another. Capacity of a tankless water heater is measured by how many degrees it increases water temperature at a given flow, typically expressed in gallons per minute (gpm).

Because of the heat output and response time required, most (but not all) whole-house tankless heaters are gas-fired (including propane and kerosene). Smaller, single-fixture units, which may store a few gallons of water, are usually electric.

Gas-fired tankless water heaters do require venting--in fact, their flues generally must be larger than those required for conventional gas water heaters. Like conventional water heaters, some units have power vents that allow you to exhaust gasses out a side wall; these are ideal for replacing electric water heaters where venting out the roof would be costly.

Floodproofing Devices

If your home drainage system or the neighbourhood’s drainage system overloads, you may still be able to prevent rain water and sewage from backing up into your basement by installing one or more floodproofing devices, such as sump pumps or back flow valves. Each installation is unique and some devices (back flow valves) may require a plumbing permit. Check with your municipal office or a qualified plumber before you proceed with any installation.

Sump Pit Drainage System


Figure 1

A sump pit drainage system includes a sump pit, a sump pump and a discharge pipe. The sump pit, set into the basement floor, collects water from the weeping tiles around your basement. The pump pushes the water outside your house through the discharge pipe (Figure 1).
Place your sump pump discharge pipe so that it:
• drains somewhere onto your property where water can be absorbed, such as your lawn or flower bed
• does not direct water onto neighbouring properties, lanes, sidewalks, or streets.

Sump Pit

• Clean the pit each year after freeze-up. Weeping tile drainage may carry small amounts of soil, sand and debris into the pit from around your basement foundation.
• Some water may remain in the pit and cause a musty smell if it sits for a long time. If so, you can flush the pit by adding fresh water until the pump removes the stale water.

Sump Pump

• Check and test your pump each spring before the rainy season begins, and before you leave your house for a long time. Pour water into the pit to trigger the pump to operate.
• Remove and thoroughly clean the pump at least once a year. Disconnect the pump from the power source before you handle or clean it.
• Check the pit every so often to ensure it is free of debris. Most pumps have a screen that covers the water intake. You must keep this screen clean.

Sump Pump Discharge Pipe

• Check the place where the discharge pipe leaves the house. If the pipe is discharging right against the basement wall, the water will drain down into the weeping tiles and continue to recycle through the system.
• Check the discharge point regularly to make sure that nothing is blocking the flow.
• If your pump runs frequently in the winter, and the resulting ice is causing hazardous conditions on the lawn and sidewalks, call your municipal office.

Backwater Valve

Figure2

A backwater valve is a device that prevents sewage in an overloaded main sewer line from backing up into your basement. The valve automatically closes if sewage backs up from the main sewer (Figure 2). A properly installed backwater valve must be placed so that sewage backup will be stopped and not come out through other outlets in your basement, such as sinks, toilets, showers and laundry tubs.
• Make sure that you can get at the valve at all times.
• Check the valve regularly and remove any material that may prevent the valve from operating properly.
You will normally require a permit and inspection to install a backwater valve and sump pit. Since part of the basement floor will be dug up and since proper placement of these items is important, we recommend that you use a qualified plumbing contractor.

Plumbing Fixture Maintenance

Have a qualified plumber inspect all floodproofing devices and plumbing fixtures (i.e. sump pumps, backwater valves, floor drains, etc.) regularly to ensure proper operation. Check the operating instructions for more detailed information and safety guidelines, or ask your plumber to explain the details of your system to you.

Additional Protection Measures

There are also several additional flood protection measures that may be considered.

Backup Sump Pump

Severe storms are often accompanied by power blackouts. A battery powered backup sump pump may be a prudent investment. Most pumps are made to fit in beside the main sump pump and also have an audible alarm that warns the main pump has failed so that you can attend to its repair or replacement. There are also water powered backup sump pumps available that run by water flowing through the pump impeller.

Basement Finishes and Furnishings

In the event a risk of basement flooding is still possible, it is advisable to install impermeable floor and wall finishes, such as ceramic tile, to lessen damage and make cleanup easier. Make sure basement furniture has legs that keep the furniture fabrics above any accumulated flood water. Area rugs are a good alternative to full broadloom as these can be removed and properly cleaned in the event of flood damage.

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Roofing System

The roof is part of the exterior, but requires more individual attention. It is design to protect all components of the house. There are many roof styles and finished materials.During the inspection the roofing system is carefully inspected for wear, leaks defects and other deficiencies. Roofing problems that go undetected can cause serious harm to other components of the building.

The structure system of the home is what gives it shape and strength.The two main components of the structure system are the foundation and the framing system. Each of these components are critical in providing the building with long lastingcomfort and stability.

Framing System

Like the human body, a house has a skeleton that gives it support,shape and a framework for outer covering. A house skeleton is colled frame.

Foundations

The foundation is often viewed as the most important part of the dwelling. It support the entire home,its contents, and the live load in it [people]. The type of foundation is noted and then inspected for cracks,settling,water leaks and overall condition. Different types of foundations are prone to different problems, but all have the same major function. All readily visible and accessible portions of the Structure System are inspected carefully for defects.

Exterior
The exterior of the building includes;lot grading and drainage, siding, exterior finishes such as siding and wall cladding,trim,eaves gutters and downspouts,stairs,
railings, walkway,retaining walls, driveway, decks and porches, trim, all protrusions through the home, to the outside, including intake and exhaust vents, windows and doors, garages and garage doors and door openers, exposed foundation walls and trees. Each of this items is inspected not only for its condition, but how it relates to the dwelling. Defects in exterior components can gratly affect other components of the home.

The
Attic of the home is the upper most portion of the dewlling, which remains in the interior.Attics are often used by homeowners for storage and sometimes finished for additional living space if construction style allows, unfortunately eaven when it doesn't. When attic is unfinished and accessible, the inspector can inspect for the quality of the construction,the insulation,water penetration,venting,pest or rodent entry and exposed electrical hazards.During the inspection, the inspector will wlways not be able to inspect the enclosed areas. Your inspector will be looking for signs that mey indicate hidden problems as well as a safe and professional finishing job, which will not interfere with the venting and insulation system of the home.

GFCI

GFCI's (Ground-fault circuit interrupters)
A ground-fault circuit interrupter, also called a GFI or GFCI, shuts off a circuit instantly if it senses a hazardous short. The receptacle type looks like a regular receptacle except it has a reset button in the middle. In new construction, these are usually required in bathrooms, kitchens and outdoors. Often a GFCI is mounted as the first receptacle along a circuit (between the electrical panel and other receptacles on the same circuit), automatically protecting the others on the same line.

THE AFCI


The “AFCI” is an arc fault circuit
interrupter. AFCIs are newly-developed
electrical devices designed to protect
against fires caused by arcing faults in the
home electrical wiring.
THE FIRE PROBLEM
Annually, over 40,000 fires are attributed
to home electrical wiring. These fires
result in over 350 deaths and over 1,400
injuries each year1. Arcing faults are one
of the major causes of these fires. When
unwanted arcing occurs, it generates high
temperatures that can ignite nearby
combustibles such as wood, paper, and
carpets.
Arcing faults often occur in damaged or
deteriorated wires and cords. Some causes
of damaged and deteriorated wiring include
puncturing of wire insulation from picture
hanging or cable staples, poorly installed
outlets or switches, cords caught in doors
or under furniture, furniture pushed against
plugs in an outlet, natural aging, and cord
exposure to heat vents and sunlight.
HOW THE AFCI WORKS
Conventional circuit breakers only respond to overloads and short circuits; so they do not
protect against arcing conditions that produce erratic current flow. An AFCI is selective
so that normal arcs do not cause it to trip.
The AFCI circuitry continuously monitors current flow through the AFCI. AFCIs use
unique current sensing circuitry to discriminate between normal and unwanted arcing
conditions. Once an unwanted arcing condition is detected, the control circuitry in the
AFCI trips the internal contacts, thus de-energizing the circuit and reducing the potential
for a fire to occur. An AFCI should not trip during normal arcing conditions, which can
occur when a switch is opened or a plug is pulled from a receptacle.
Presently, AFCIs are designed into conventional circuit breakers combining traditional
overload and short-circuit protection with arc fault protection. AFCI circuit breakers
(AFCIs) have a test button and look similar to ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI)
circuit breakers. Some designs combine GFCI and AFCI protection. Additional AFCI
design configurations are anticipated in the near future.
It is important to note that AFCIs are designed to mitigate the effects of arcing faults but
cannot eliminate them completely. In some cases, the initial arc may cause ignition prior
to detection and circuit interruption by the AFCI.
The AFCI circuit breaker serves a dual purpose – not only will it shut off electricity in the
event of an “arcing fault”, but it will also trip when a short circuit or an overload occurs.
The AFCI circuit breaker provides protection for the branch circuit wiring and limited
protection for power cords and extension cords. Single-pole, 15- and 20- ampere AFCI
circuit breakers are presently available.
WHERE AFCIs SHOULD BE USED
The 1999 edition of the National Electrical Code, the model code for electrical wiring
adopted by many local jurisdictions, requires AFCIs for receptacle outlets in bedrooms,
effective January 1, 2002. Although the requirement is limited to only certain circuits in
new residential construction, AFCIs should be considered for added protection in other
circuits and for existing homes as well. Older homes with aging and deteriorating wiring
systems can especially benefit from the added protection of AFCIs. AFCIs should also
be considered whenever adding or upgrading a panel box while using existing branch
circuit conductors.
 

Water Heaters

Fundamentally, a water heater is an appliance that converts energy to heat and transfers that warmth to water. It's connected to a cold water supply pipe and has an outgoing hot water pipe-or system of pipes-that supplies heated water to one or more taps and appliances. A conventional water heater stores heated water in a cylindrical tank. The less-common tankless water heater doesn't store water-it routes heated water straight to taps or appliances.
The majority of water heaters are fueled by natural gas, though propane and electric water heaters are not unusual. Where natural gas is available, it is a much less expensive heat source than electricity.
Small "instant hot-water dispensers" are simply miniature electric water heaters that serve only one faucet. They have a small, under-sink tank that heats and holds nearly-boiling (about 190-degree) water and delivers it under low pressure through a separate sink-top spout.

A conventional gas-fueled water heater warms water with a burner beneath the tank. Natural gas (or propane or kerosene, in some cases) is piped to a gas valve. A thermostat detects the temperature of water in the tank regulates fuel delivery to the burner, which is ignited by a pilot light or spark ignition. A vent collects toxic emissions from the burner and pipes them up through the tank, out the top and normally up through the roof. Some newer, high-efficiency water heaters have fan-assisted vents that can be piped out through a wall.

A heavy electrical cable delivers energy to heating elements in an electric water heater. Electric water heater doesn't create combustion gasses, so no vent is required. They typically have one 5500-watt or, for faster heating, two 4500-watt elements. Separate thermostats control each element, cycling on as needed.
Because the tank is under pressure, hot water exits through the hot water outlet at the top of the tank. When hot water leaves, cold water enters through a diffuser dip tube that extends down inside the tank. The cold water pipe normally has a shutoff valve. A magnesium or aluminum anode rod utilizes the principle of ionization to minimize corrosive elements in the water that shorten tank life. The larger the anode, the longer a tank is likely to last.
The drain valve at the water heater's base is used for draining the tank or flushing sediment. This important maintenance should occur one or twice a year, according to the manufacturer's recommendations.

A temperature and pressure relief (T & P) valve near (or on) the top of the tank opens automatically if temperature or pressure exceed safe levels. This should be tested periodically, according to manufacturer's directions.

Most consumers take for granted their hot water supply and rarely think about their water heaters once they have been installed. Where water heaters are concerned, "out of sight" is usually "out of mind." and to date, many are unaware of the need to have their water heaters regularly maintained to prevent water heater explosions.
The Temperature and pressure relief valve (T & P) is the primary "back-up" safety measure which prevents the water in the pressurized hot water cylinder from overheating. An explosion of a water heater presumes at least two system failures. Generally, the safety mechanism in the controls, coupled with a properly installed and working T & P relief valve, insures a safe system.
To insure their safe operation, water heaters must be installed with temperature and pressure relief valves. A T&P relief valve is a two-in-one safety device, which, as its name implies, responds both to excessive temperature and to excessive pressure in a water heater.
A T&P valve responds to excessive temperature by expansion of the thermostat which lifts the disc off its seat and discharges overheated water, allowing cooler water to enter the tank and replace the discharged hot water in order to moderate the water temperature. When a valve is relieving water in volume, it is generally due to excessive temperature.

The valve also responds to excessive pressure by discharging water to prevent further pressure increase. If a T&P valve is dripping, rather than relieving in volume, it usually indicates either thermal expansion or debris on the seat, which prevents the valve from closing tightly.
Thermal expansion is an increase in system pressure over that regulated by the reducing valve, check valve or backflow preventor. When water is heated in a closed system, it expands and causes an increase in pressure. When the system is opened, pressure will return to normal, and the relief valve should stop dripping. When a backflow prevention device or check valve is installed on the water service entering a building, a closed system is created. When water is heated, it expands. Because the water has nowhere to go in a closed system, a potentially dangerous situation is created.

 
For over a decade it has been known that an inoperative or improperly installed temperature and pressure (T & P) relief valve on a water heater can turn an ordinary water heater into a potentially explosive and life-threatening "bomb."
A safety valve such as a T&P relief valve is a mechanical device which, like any mechanical device, is subject to failure, particularly when tampered with or improperly installed. If the valve cannot do its job, the water in the tank may become superheated (over 212°Fd, causing a thirty gallon water heater to explode with the equivalent force of one pound of dynamite. This is not theory or conjecture. It is a matter of record that such explosions occur, and have occurred, at the expense of human life. Yet, to date, only a few are aware of the need to have their water heaters regularly maintained to prevent water heater explosions.